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//]]></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="http://103.249.53.35/gate/big5/afpmm.alicdn.com/g/mm/afp-cdn/JS/k.js@OldUrl;@JS;http://culture.taiwan.cn/lawhsx/201611/t20161121_11629525.htm_.js"></script>  </div>  <div id="tw_artmain"> <div class="tw_place"><a href="http://103.249.53.35/" target="_self">台灣網</a> > <a href="http://103.249.53.35/gate/big5/culture.taiwan.cn/" target="_self" title="兩岸文化" class="CurrChnlCls">兩岸文化</a> > <a href="http://103.249.53.35/gate/big5/culture.taiwan.cn/lawhsx/" target="_self" title="書訊" class="CurrChnlCls">書訊</a></div> <h1 class="art_tit">《無鮮勿落飯》：活著與生活</h1> <div class="art_time">2016年11月21日 08:41:42 來源：北京日報 <div class="art_font"><div style="float:left;margin-top:-6px;">  <div class="bdsharebuttonbox"><a href="#" class="bds_more" data-cmd="more"></a><a href="#" class="bds_qzone" data-cmd="qzone" title="分享到QQ空間"></a><a href="#" class="bds_tsina" data-cmd="tsina" title="分享到新浪微博"></a><a href="#" class="bds_tqq" data-cmd="tqq" title="分享到騰訊微博"></a><a href="#" class="bds_renren" data-cmd="renren" title="分享到人人網"></a><a href="#" class="bds_weixin" data-cmd="weixin" title="分享到微信"></a></div> <script>window._bd_share_config={"common":{"bdSnsKey":{},"bdText":"","bdMini":"2","bdMiniList":false,"bdPic":"","bdStyle":"0","bdSize":"16"},"share":{}};with(document)0[(getElementsByTagName('head')[0]||body).appendChild(createElement('script')).src='http://103.249.53.35/gate/big5/bdimg.share.baidu.com/static/api/js/share.js?v=89860593.js?cdnversion='+~(-new Date()/36e5)];</script>  </div><div style="float:left;"><a href="javascript:window.print();"><img src="http://ats.taiwan.cn/images/jingmao_34.gif" align="top" /></a>字號：<a href="javascript:void(0);" class="smallFont">小</a> <a href="javascript:void(0);" class="medFont">中</a> <a href="javascript:void(0);" class="largeFont">大</a></div></div> </div> <div class="art_con left"> <div class="art_txt fontsizebox"> <div class=TRS_Editor><p align="center"><img src="http://103.249.53.35/gate/big5/culture.taiwan.cn/lawhsx/201611/W020161121308480354202.jpg" alt="" oldsrc="W020161121308480354202.jpg" /></p> <p align="center" class="pictext"><font face="楷體,楷體_GB2312">《無鮮勿落飯》</font></p> <p align="center"><font face="楷體,楷體_GB2312">王寒著</font></p> <p align="center"><font face="楷體,楷體_GB2312">浙江工商大學出版社出版</font></p> <p>　　林立</p> <p>　　如今這年頭，吃貨滿街走，愛吃的人很多，但懂吃的人不多。</p> <p>　　女作家王寒不見得比別的吃貨愛吃，但她肯定比別的吃貨懂吃。</p> <p>　　《無鮮勿落飯》滿紙江南美食，在她的筆下，江南的滋味，不僅在詩詞歌賦，在畫卷書軸中，也在舌尖和味蕾上，所以江南的滋味，在她的筆下，“是春初早韭，秋末晚菘，是正月雪裏梅，二月桃花鯔，是油菜花黃，昂刺魚肥，是西湖邊的小點心雪媚娘，是那道叫小青青白娘娘的涼拌菜，是春日裏的採薇採青採馬蘭頭，是立夏的櫻桃紅枇杷黃，是金秋的紅膏蟹冬至的酒釀圓。”《無鮮勿落飯》顯然是一本和水煮肉片、萬州烤魚、鍋包肉等重口菜無關的書。</p> <p>　　民以食為天，《無鮮勿落飯》將江南美食的鮮活、鮮美、鮮甜體現得淋漓盡致。江南美食的鮮活，在令人垂涎欲滴的各類海鮮上——現撈現燒，新鮮透骨，讓人欲罷不能。她寫沙蒜湯之鮮，“俗話說：唱戲的腔，廚師的湯。能燒湯的海鮮很多，但是要燒得像沙蒜湯那般的鮮香綿稠，不容易。鮮脆沙蒜湯的鮮味纏繞在唇齒之間，把味蕾的快感勾了個痛快淋漓。對於第一次吃這種湯的人來說，絕對是一種震撼，因為這湯實在太鮮、太有味道了！”江南美食的鮮美，不止在海鮮上，還在江南的時令菜蔬上，從“嘗鮮無不道春筍”到“立夏三鮮”，無一不鮮——“還有一種叫小野竹筍的，葉細枝韌，僻寂之處，野地荒郊，常見其身影。剝下它的外衣，是青玉簪般細細的一小條，有一種孤高之美，別有淡泊出塵的氣質，切成小段炒臘肉，是青白之中的幾筆朱紅，雅致可口。”</p> <p>　　走遍全中國、走過世界三十多個國家，吃過各地美食的王寒，最愛的還是江南的味道，她把她的長筷子變成筆桿子，淋漓盡致道出了江南美食的鮮美味道，看得人又想去海邊灘塗撿蛤蜊，又想坐搖櫓小船悠游水鄉，還想跟著她上山挖春筍，鄉間吃桃漿。</p> <p>　　吃到撐、打飽嗝、剔牙縫，等餓了再吃下一頓，是吃貨的本能。吃得見識與才華齊增，才算美食家。</p> <p>　　這本書裏，隨處可見王寒分享的海鮮典故與有趣段子。例如“泥螺，又叫吐鐵，《食物本草》說，大如指頂者則有脂如凝膏，色青，外殼亦軟，其肉色黑如鐵，吐露殼外，故稱‘吐鐵’。” 例如“海南人把血蚶當元寶，潮州人除夕吃了血蚶把殼拋床底，年初五收拾蚶殼，念著‘蚶殼錢，賺大錢’，因為蚶殼相磨所發的音響，極似銅錢聲音。”</p> <p>　　《無鮮勿落飯》時而用典，時而戲謔，生活的種種趣味蘊涵其中，文字隨處可見俏皮與機趣，她在《螺中香妃》中，寫道：“香螺尾部有膏，這是香螺的精華所在。內陸城市的人，初次吃香螺，常把這黃黃的膏當成是香螺的‘屎’，棄之不食，經在座的老江湖一番調教，才恍然大悟，吃後不免感嘆：天下竟然還有這麼好吃的‘屎’!”</p> <p>　　吃貨享受的不是只有食物從舌尖到胃的一種滑落，而是從家吃到天涯海角的樂趣。天下那麼多食材、調味料，充滿了組合、實驗的樂趣。只有參與每一個環節，並不斷記錄、交流，才成就為品味。這種快樂，每天下飯館，上桌就自拍，卻從來沒包過粽子、沒在海邊撿過貝殼、沒摸過螺螄的食客是享受不到的。</p> <p>　　王寒書中一句話，讓我大有志同道合的快樂：有人問我，龍頭鮳和水潺幹哪個好吃？我說，吃龍頭鮳和水潺幹的區別在於，一個是活著，一個是生活。</p> <p>　　活著，是隨胃。生活，是隨心。</p></div> <p class="editor">[責任編輯：楊真斌]</p> </div> <div class="page"> <script type="text/javascript"> createPageHTML(1, 0, "t20161121_11629525", "htm"); 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